- Sticks
- Gloves
- Glue gun
- Clay sculpture on some plastic
- Measuring cups
- Scissors
- Fixing spray
- Petrolease
- Silicone A
- Silicone B
- Scales
- Cling film
- Baby wipes
- Tissues
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Baldiez
- Hair dryer
- Brush
- Deadener
- Silicone pigments
- Metal plate
- Naphtha
- Baby buds
Preparation:
- Label 2 separate sticks A and B
- Apply cling film over working surface and scales
- Apply gloves
- Turn the glue gun on so that it can heat up
- Clay sculpture should be ready for moulding
Step by step:
1. Cut the top of the cup off, about 1/3 of the way down.
1. Cut the top of the cup off, about 1/3 of the way down.
2. Shake the fixing spray well, go over to an open window, and spray the clay evenly from about 20cm away.
3. Once the fixing spray has dried, spray the clay evenly with some Petrolease, from about 20cm away, again.
4. Place the cup around the wound and use the glue gun to secure the cup to the plastic so ensure no silicone will leak out. Press down on the cup whilst the glue is drying so that it lies flat. Leave the glue to dry and harden.
4. Place the cup around the wound and use the glue gun to secure the cup to the plastic so ensure no silicone will leak out. Press down on the cup whilst the glue is drying so that it lies flat. Leave the glue to dry and harden.
5. Put a new cup on the scales and put the scales to 0.
6. Put on some new gloves and take a stick labelled A and scoop out some of the silicone A and put it in the cup until it reaches 30 grams.
7. After the 30 grams has been added to the cup, clean the outside of the pot with silicone A in it with baby wipes and put the lid tightly on.
8. Put some new gloves on and use a stick labelled B with the silicone B and scoop 30 grams of product into the cut with A in it.
9. Clean the outside of the pot of B with some baby wipes and secure the lid.
10. With the same B stick mix the products together well and try to get as little bubbles as possible. If bubbles occur, then tap the cup on the table and they should rise to the surface and disappear.
11. Pour the silicone mixture over your wound so that the silicone completely covers the wound. Do this in back and forth motions to give an even coverage.
12. Let the silicone set for about an hour or until it hardens
6. Put on some new gloves and take a stick labelled A and scoop out some of the silicone A and put it in the cup until it reaches 30 grams.
7. After the 30 grams has been added to the cup, clean the outside of the pot with silicone A in it with baby wipes and put the lid tightly on.
8. Put some new gloves on and use a stick labelled B with the silicone B and scoop 30 grams of product into the cut with A in it.
9. Clean the outside of the pot of B with some baby wipes and secure the lid.
10. With the same B stick mix the products together well and try to get as little bubbles as possible. If bubbles occur, then tap the cup on the table and they should rise to the surface and disappear.
11. Pour the silicone mixture over your wound so that the silicone completely covers the wound. Do this in back and forth motions to give an even coverage.
12. Let the silicone set for about an hour or until it hardens
13. Once the mould has set, cut around the glue and pull out the hardened silicone.
14. Wipe the silicone with a cotton pad and isopropyl alcohol.
14. Wipe the silicone with a cotton pad and isopropyl alcohol.
(Creating the wound using the mould)
15. Spray the mould with Petrolease evenly, from a 20cm distance and let it dry.
16. Create a mixture of 1 part baldiez and 2 part isopropyl alcohol and mix together well.
17. Pour some of this mixture into the dents in your silicone and smooth it away with a brush to blend the edges and coat the wound.
18. Apply a second coat all over the wound and let it dry, You can use a cool hair dryer to speed up this process.
19. Apply some gloves and add 8 grams of silicone A into a clean cup with a stick labelled A.
20. Wipe the pot down with a baby wipe before securely tightening the lid.
21. Apply some new gloves and add 8 grams of silicone B with a stick labelled B.
22. Wipe the pot down with a baby wipe before securely tightening the lid.
23. Using a new stick and some new gloves, add 12 grams of deadener to the mixture to make the silicone softer and more skin-like.
24. Add 1 - 2 drops of pigment to your mixture to make it close to your model's skin colour.
25. Pour the mixture into the mould.
26. Using something flat, e.g.metal plate from kit, run it across your wound to get rid of any excess mixture and make the product flat with the mould.
27. Put some Naphtha on a baby bud, wipe off the excess, and blend out the edges so that they won't look so harsh on the skin.
15. Spray the mould with Petrolease evenly, from a 20cm distance and let it dry.
16. Create a mixture of 1 part baldiez and 2 part isopropyl alcohol and mix together well.
17. Pour some of this mixture into the dents in your silicone and smooth it away with a brush to blend the edges and coat the wound.
18. Apply a second coat all over the wound and let it dry, You can use a cool hair dryer to speed up this process.
19. Apply some gloves and add 8 grams of silicone A into a clean cup with a stick labelled A.
20. Wipe the pot down with a baby wipe before securely tightening the lid.
21. Apply some new gloves and add 8 grams of silicone B with a stick labelled B.
22. Wipe the pot down with a baby wipe before securely tightening the lid.
23. Using a new stick and some new gloves, add 12 grams of deadener to the mixture to make the silicone softer and more skin-like.
24. Add 1 - 2 drops of pigment to your mixture to make it close to your model's skin colour.
25. Pour the mixture into the mould.
26. Using something flat, e.g.metal plate from kit, run it across your wound to get rid of any excess mixture and make the product flat with the mould.
27. Put some Naphtha on a baby bud, wipe off the excess, and blend out the edges so that they won't look so harsh on the skin.
28. Leave to set for at least an hour
29. Powder so that it does not stick to anything
I really enjoyed doing this lesson because I actually quite like the more technical side of things, e.g. maths/following precise instructions, because I've always been quite good at it, and hence why I finished in plenty of time and was able to help others out.
I had not used any of these products before, and had never made anything like this, so I liked the fact that I got to learn something completely new and that it will be very useful in the future. I think I did quite well in creating the mould because everything went to plan and turned out how it was supposed to, so hopefully the same goes for my wound! For example, I hope my glass shard fits nice and snug into the mould, etc. I realise that I probably won't be able to reuse this mould because it is extremely precise and will only work with my glass shard that I am using, but I am glad that I have been shown how to make these moulds so that I can make more that I can actually reuse and have popular designs/wounds.
We have not yet been shown how to take the wound out of the mould, so I am waiting for next weeks lesson in order to be shown how to do that. I am slightly nervous that it will not work how I want it to, but there is no way for me to know yet. I hope I am able to colour the wound realistically (e.g. with blood) and that it turns out the way I am hoping; however I have not been able to practice, since we do not have the mould. I am excited for next week where we get to finish the wound and create the whole character.
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